Lençóis Maranhenses: When the Lagoons Are Full and How to Get There
How to plan a trip to Lençóis Maranhenses, Brazil's desert of blue lagoons: the best months, Barreirinhas vs Santo Amaro vs Atins, the tours, and how to get there from São Luís.
Lençóis Maranhenses is a national park in the state of Maranhão, in northeastern Brazil: about 1,500 km² of white sand dunes that fill with thousands of turquoise rainwater lagoons for a few months each year. It became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2024. It's remote and takes some planning, but nothing else in Brazil looks like it.
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When the lagoons are full
This is the most important thing to get right. The lagoons are fed by rain that falls from around January to June. They're fullest and bluest from June to September, with July and August usually the peak. By November and December many lagoons are low or dry.
| Months | What to expect |
|---|---|
| January to May | Rainy season, lagoons filling up, some roads muddy |
| June to September | Best time: full lagoons, sunny days, Brazilian holidays in July |
| October to December | Lagoons shrinking, strong winds, great for kitesurfing |
Where to base yourself
- Barreirinhas: the main gateway, about four hours by road from São Luís. The most hotels, restaurants and tour agencies. Tours to Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Bonita leave from here.
- Santo Amaro: the dunes start right at the edge of town, and the lagoons here (like Lagoa da Gaivota) are some of the most beautiful and least crowded. Harder to reach, but our favourite.
- Atins: a small village where the Preguiças river meets the sea. Sandy streets, kitesurfing, and walks into the dunes. Reached by boat or 4x4 from Barreirinhas.
With four or five days, combine Barreirinhas or Santo Amaro with a couple of nights in Atins.
The tours
You can't drive into the park yourself: the sand roads require local 4x4 trucks and drivers. Every agency sells the same main circuits:
- Lagoa Azul circuit: the classic half-day tour from Barreirinhas.
- Lagoa Bonita circuit: a steeper climb up a big dune, with wide views. Great at sunset.
- Preguiças river boat trip: to Vassouras (small dunes and monkeys), the Mandacaru lighthouse and Caburé, a strip of sand between the river and the sea.
- Scenic flight: a short small-plane flight over the dunes. Expensive, but the view of the lagoons from above is unforgettable.
Book a day ahead with an agency in town or through your hotel. Prices are similar everywhere.
How to get there
Fly to São Luís (SLZ), the state capital, which has a beautiful colonial center worth a day of its own. From São Luís, shared vans and buses go to Barreirinhas in about four hours, and to Santo Amaro in about four to five. Many hotels arrange the transfer. Book a private transfer if you're landing late.
Lençóis is also the start of the Rota das Emoções, a road trip east through the Parnaíba Delta to Jericoacoara in Ceará, usually done with 4x4 tours over three or four days.
Practical tips
- Walk barefoot on the dunes, but the sand burns at midday: go early or late.
- Bring strong sunscreen, a hat, sunglasses and water. There's no shade.
- Protect your phone and camera from sand in a zip bag.
- Don't leave rubbish, and don't drive or ride anything on the dunes: it's a protected area.
- ATMs are few outside Barreirinhas, so carry some cash. More on money in Brazil.
FAQ
How many days do I need for Lençóis Maranhenses?
Three days minimum to do the two main circuits and the river trip. Four to five if you add Atins or Santo Amaro.
Can you swim in the lagoons?
Yes. They're warm, clear rainwater, and swimming is the best part of the tour.
Is it worth going in December?
Only if you're there for kitesurfing or the dunes themselves. Many lagoons are low or dry by then.
Last checked October 2026. Lagoon levels depend on each year's rain, so check recent photos and ask local agencies before you book.
